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Heat Pump Buyer's Guide: What Matters Before You Buy

You're going to get a heat pump quote. The installer will show you a spec sheet. You'll see two numbers that mean nothing to you—COP and HSPF—and you'll nod like you understand.

Stop. Read this first.

By Sam Menard · Updated August 2026 · 10 min read

On this page
  1. Quick quiz: how a heat pump works
  2. What Actually Matters
  3. The Cost Breakdown Nobody Explains
  4. The Noise Question
  5. Single-Zone vs Multi-Zone (Ductless vs Ducted)
  6. The Installer Question
  7. The Math You Actually Need
  8. Summary: What to Do Monday Morning
  9. Related Reading
Quick quiz

Quick quiz: how a heat pump works

Ten questions on the machine itself. Tap an answer to see why.

1. How does a heat pump heat your home?

A heat pump uses a refrigerant loop to carry heat in from outside air (or the ground). Moving heat takes far less energy than making it.

2. Can a heat pump heat a home when it is below freezing outside?

Cold-climate models are tested and rated for low temperatures. Always check the rated output at your coldest design temperature.

3. What does 'cold-climate' on a heat pump mean?

It is a performance rating, not a sales region. Many rebate programs ask for a cold-climate model on a qualified list.

4. For each unit of electricity it uses, a heat pump delivers about:

Because it moves heat instead of making it, a heat pump is often 200 to 400 percent efficient. Electric baseboards top out at 100 percent.

5. What is a ductless mini-split?

It needs no ductwork. Each indoor unit heats and cools the room it sits in, which suits homes without ducts.

6. Can a heat pump also cool your home in summer?

A reversing valve switches the direction of heat flow, so one system heats in winter and cools in summer.

7. What should an installer use to size a heat pump?

Square footage misses insulation, windows and air leaks. A proper heat-loss calculation avoids a unit that is too big or too small.

8. You see steam or frost on the outdoor unit in winter. What is usually happening?

Frost builds on the outdoor coil in cold, damp air. The unit briefly reverses to melt it, then goes back to heating.

9. About how long does a well-installed heat pump last?

Fifteen years is a common figure, longer with regular filter cleaning and yearly checks.

10. Why do some homes keep backup heat with a heat pump?

Right-sized cold-climate units handle most winter days. A small backup is a choice for the coldest extremes, not a sign the heat pump fails.

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A modern house with a heat pump unit on the outside wall

What Actually Matters

AHRI Certification

This is the only thing you need to care about more than price. It means the manufacturer tested the heat pump in cold weather—like BC winters—and proved it works. No AHRI cert for your climate? You're buying a gamble.

Check the AHRI directory before you sign: www.ahridirectory.org. Search your specific model and outdoor design temperature. If it's not there, ask why.

Cold Climate COP

COP is just "how much heat you get per dollar of electricity." But here's the catch: manufacturers test at 47°F. That's spring weather. At -15°C (a normal BC January night), that number drops. Sometimes 30%, sometimes more.

Ask your installer: "What's the COP at -15°C for this specific model?" If they say "I'm not sure," they haven't done their homework. Mitsubishi and Daikin have real -15°C data. Some brands don't.

Warranty Matters Less Than You Think

Warranty terms vary by brand and model, and many need online registration to get the longer term. After that, you own the risk. A 10-year warranty is nice if you keep the heat pump for 15 years. Most people don't.

What actually matters: parts availability. If a compressor dies in rural BC in January and the brand doesn't stock parts locally, you're in trouble. Mitsubishi and Daikin have service networks everywhere. LG? Less common.

The Cost Breakdown Nobody Explains

A quote should split out equipment, labour, electrical work, permits and removal of the old system. If it's one lump number, ask for the breakdown. Prices vary a lot by region and home, so compare two or three quotes for the same scope.

Know which rebate you're getting and when it's paid. In BC, BC Hydro pays up to $4,000 (whole-home) or $1,500 (partial) when you replace electric heat, after you apply. CleanBC's income-qualified Energy Savings Program (up to $13,000 for switching from gas, oil or propane) is taken off your invoice by the contractor. If an installer says "after rebate you pay $2,000," ask which program, and whether you pay the full amount first.

Some installers offer financing. If they do, check the rate and compare it with other ways to borrow.

The Noise Question

Outdoor units make some noise. The outdoor unit runs a compressor (like a refrigerator) and a fan. When it's 30 below and your heat pump is working hard, neighbors notice.

Check the sound rating on the spec sheet. But at 2 AM when you're paying attention to every sound, it feels louder.

Ask for the decibel rating at full load (not rated capacity). Ask where your outdoor unit will go. If it's near a bedroom window, think twice. Compare the sound ratings of the models you're quoted if neighbours are close.

Single-Zone vs Multi-Zone (Ductless vs Ducted)

Ductless: One outdoor unit, one or more indoor wall units. Heats individual rooms exactly how you want. Install in a few days, minimal disruption. Looks like a box on your wall (some people hate this).

Ducted: Outdoor unit connects to your existing furnace ducts. Heats the whole house automatically. Looks cleaner (no wall boxes). Adding or fixing ducts adds real cost, so get it quoted.

For most BC homeowners: ductless is the sane choice. Ask for quotes on both if you have ducts in good shape.

The Installer Question

You're not buying a heat pump. You're buying an installation. The best equipment installed wrong heats your house poorly.

Ask your installer:

  • "How many of this brand have you installed this year?"
  • "What's your typical first-year callback rate?" (Should be under 5%)
  • "Will you pull permits?" (Some try to skip this)
  • "What's included in your warranty on labor?" (Should be 2-5 years)

If they seem annoyed by these questions, they're not the right person.

The Math You Actually Need

Ask each installer to fill in these numbers for your home, in writing:

  • Total installed price, before rebates
  • Which rebate programs apply, and how much each pays
  • Estimated yearly running cost, based on your own gas or power bills
  • What you pay today vs. what comes back later

If two quotes for the same scope are far apart, ask each installer to explain the difference.

Sources, checked September 26, 2026: BC Hydro heat pump rebates · CleanBC Energy Savings Program requirements

Your next step: Know your rebates before talking to installers. Use our free rebate finder to see the open rebates for your city. It gives installers clear numbers to quote against.

Summary: What to Do Monday Morning

  • Check AHRI directory for any models you're considering
  • Ask installers for -15°C COP (not rated COP)
  • Get 2-3 quotes, compare total cost (equipment + install)
  • Ask about local service network and past projects
  • Don't let them rush you (decision should take 2-3 weeks)

The rebate doesn't expire this year. There will be other quotes. Take your time.

Keep learning

Short reads and quick quizzes on how rebate programs work.

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